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Cedar Key in 2023 – A Small, Authentic, Old Florida City

Last Updated on September 19, 2023

Cedar Key in 2023 is genuinely original and hard to beat when it’s compared to any other authentic, Old Florida city.

Cedar Key Fisherman mosaic art and wall mural

Deep island history reflects the resiliency of its residents, and rich natural eco-treasures complemented by a quaint rustic and artsy vibe make it a very special destination.

Cedar Key water tower

Visiting Authentic Cedar Key

Table of Contents

    CEDAR KEY IN 2023 UPDATE: Due to Hurricane Idalia, some businesses have not reopened yet. However, many restaurants, shops, and accommodations are back in business. Please support these local gems.

    Follow the Cedar Key Welcome Center Facebook page for the latest information on reopening.

    Cedar Key in 2023 Events

    
53rd Annual Cedar Key Seafood Festival Poster by AuthenticFlorida.com

    The 53rd Annual Cedar Key Seafood Festival is still happening on October 21st & 22nd, 2023. It’s a free event and a great way to support the locals.

    Learn more at the Cedar Key Welcome Center Facebook page.

    For the Love of Cedar Key

    Cedar Key does not have the touristy, tropical vibe found throughout Florida.

    Welcome to Cedar Key sign

    It beats to its own drum and is truly one of our favorite destinations in the Sunshine State simply because of its rustic authenticity and its love of the arts.

    Where is Cedar Key?

    Boat in the water

    Fifty miles southwest of Gainesville, Cedar Key would be considered remote even by modern-day standards. Most visitors don’t “happen upon” Cedar Key.

    To get there, you’ll drive State Road 24 through a thick forest of pine trees passing Otter Creek (population: 132), a small community seemingly in the middle of nowhere.

    Cedar Key Old Florida Town Charm

    As you near the coast, you may want to roll down your car window, admire the scenic marshland, oyster bars, and mudflats, and breathe in the salt air from the Gulf of Mexico.

    History of Cedar Key

    Photo of a mural in Cedar Key
    Cedar Key mural

    The Cedar Keys were named for the bounty of cedar trees that once covered the islands. As lumber became the primary industry the community became recognized as the leading manufacturer of pencils during the 19th century.

    Train on the track
    Source: Florida Railroad Museum

    By the late 1800s, Cedar Key was also a thriving shipping port but suffered economic decline.

    Cedar Key railroad sign

    Famed railroad magnate Henry Plant bypassed Cedar Key and routed his railroad to Tampa.

    Over the years, intermittent hurricanes peppered the islands.

    In 1995, the locals suffered (and still talk about) another devastating economic blow: the statewide fish net ban, which curtailed the industry.

    What is Cedar Key Known For?

    Cedar Key crab traps

    Consisting of a cluster of several islands, the Cedar Keys sit four miles out into the Gulf of Mexico. It’s connected to the mainland by a causeway crossing a chain of barrier islands. 

    Photo of crab traps in Cedar Key
    Cedar Key crab traps

    The main island is on Way Key (referred to as Cedar Key). Fishing boats are a common sight … while buoys and crab traps are seen roadside, hang over fences and are spotted in front yards.

    Photo of houses on the water in Cedar Key
    Cedar Key’s rustic charm

    With a modest population of less than 800 (in season), the island town welcomes tourists — but don’t be surprised if you find a “gone fishing” sign posted on many front doors.

    Fishing shacks, funky restaurants, and colorful motels are characteristic of this hidden gem. It’s also surrounded by a pristine national wildlife refuge.

    Cedar Key in 2023 still has it’s original, organic appeal.

    Seafood and Cedar Key in 2023

    Photo of a Cedar Key Clam Fishermen
    Cedar Key Clam Fishermen

    Thanks to a thriving seafood business, the town has successfully reemerged with a new economic driver – clam aquaculture, surpassing $40 million in annual revenues.

    Photo of Cedar Key clams
    Cedar Key clams

    Cedar Key grows and harvests 95% of all farm-raised clams in the U.S. within its protected waters.

    Steamers "We serve fresh Cedar Key Clams & Oysters"

    Fresh seafood is abundant here, due to the flow of freshwater from the Suwannee and Waccasassa Rivers.

    Photo of clams in a strainer

    This creates ideal estuarine conditions for marine life such as clams, oysters, and stone crabs to develop and thrive.

    The Residents

    Artists and writers find Cedar Key to be an inspiration. They have found ways to carve out a living in this eclectic community.

    Photo of Herman Wells in Cedar Key
    Herman Wells, Wells Wood, Cedar Key

    Artists and writers find Cedar Key to be an inspiration. They have found ways to carve out a living in this eclectic community.

    Herman Wells grew up in Cedar Key after laboring 35 years as a commercial fisherman, building boats, and later creating a woodworking business where he runs his shop.

    Chair sitting in the doorway of Wells Wood and Outdoor Furniture
    Source: Wells Wood and Outdoor Furniture

    Wells creates hand-made artisan Adirondack chairs, porch swings, and folding tables using various kinds of wood including cypress, cherry, oak, and pine.

    His shop is located in what was once an old church on 709 5th Street. You’ll find Herman Wells working there daily.

    Birds on a tree

    Refuge Pride

    Atsena Otie Key
    Source: Atsena Otie Key

    Residents are also proud of the preservation efforts that established the Cedar Key National Wildlife Refuge in 1929, restricting any potential development of the outer islands.

    The Refuge consists of 13 off-shore islands with Atsensa Otie and Seahorse Keys being the most popular.

    Atsena Otie Key is the original site of the Cedar Key community and dates back to 1899. There you will find beaches, nature trails, and various ruins from the original settlement.

    Nature Coast Biological Station Historic Lighthouse
    Source: UF IFAS Nature Coast Biological Station

    Seahorse Key is home to the Nature Coast Biological Station, a research, teaching, and extension facility operated by the University of Florida.

    The historic lighthouse there dates to 1854 and was used as a Federal prison during the Civil War. Access to the research station, lighthouse, and bird sanctuary is restricted but there are open houses for the public on various days per year.

    Cedar Key in 2023 is like transporting back to another era.

    An Eco-Adventurer Paradise

    Photo of Lower Suwannee National Wildlife Refuge
    Lower Suwannee National Wildlife Refuge

    Cedar Key is undoubtedly one of the most underrated eco-tourism areas in the state of Florida. More and more people are discovering the wide diversity of things to do and see in the area.

    Photo of the Suwannee River
    Suwannee River

    Choices for kayaking, paddle boarding, boating, and airboat riding are endless and accessible in the Cedar Keys National Wildlife Refuge; the Lower Suwannee National Wildlife Refuge; and up the Suwannee and the Waccasassa Rivers.

    Mural of a crab in Cedar Key

    One thing you’ll quickly learn is that access to most areas is tide-dependent. Cedar Key is located on Florida’s continental shelf along the Big Bend area of the state, extending from central Florida up to the Panhandle.

    Photo of a sunset at Cedar Key
    Cedar Key sunset

    Except for deep channels providing boat access, the waters are shallow.

    It is wise to consult a tide chart and talk to locals before beginning any water tour, especially on your own. The good thing about the tides is that with the ebb and flow come the treasures.

    Natural Eco Treasures

    Photo of people on a Tidewater Tours boat
    Tidewater Tours provides Cedar Key Eco-Tours

    For an overview of the many natural areas begin with Tidewater Tours.

    This eco-tour company leaves from the Cedar Key City Marina and offers a range of tours – from the Cedar Key Island tour to Suwannee River tours (nine miles north), plus local specialty tours including estuary tours on a comfortable pontoon boat.

    Bird in the water
    Source: Tidewater Tours

    The Cedar Key Island Tour leaves three times a day (including a sunset tour) cruising past 8 of the 13 islands.

    This includes a close-up view of the historical Atensa Otie Key and Seahorse Key (aptly named because it is shaped like a seahorse).

    Photo of white pelicans on Cedar Key
    White Pelicans, Cedar Key

    You can see the historic 1854 Cedar Key lighthouse and thousands of nesting birds, including white pelicans during the winter months.

    If the tide allows, the tour will motor past Snake Key, another bird rookery where the bird calls will make you feel like you are in an African jungle or Amazonian rainforest.

    Tidewater Tours Suwannee River cruise takes you north for a fascinating four-hour tour highlighting the area’s diverse habitats.

    Dolphins swimming in the water
    Source: Tidewater Tours

    Beginning with the saltwater habitat, the tour provides an overview of the local clam aquaculture industry taking you past local clam farms and detailing facts about the industry and its success.

    Birds at the oyster bar
    Source: Tidewater Tours

    You then pass the Shell Mound while your hosts describe the area’s ancient history.

    From there, the boat enters a transitional zone from saltwater to fresh. At the mouth of the Suwannee River, Bald eagles and ospreys fly overhead. As you continue upriver the landscape changes.

    Marsh
    Source: Tidewater Tours

    Marsh gives way to cypress trees, alligators sun themselves on the riverbank, raccoons fish at the water’s edge, and wildflowers dot the landscape.

    Go on Your Own

    Photo of a Kayak on Atensa Otie Island
    Atensa Otie Island is an easy kayak ride from the main island

    To get out on your own in a kayak (or paddleboard) consider Cedar Key Paddling situated on SR 24 as you drive into Cedar Key.

    Owner Captain Daniel Smith has eight alternate launch sites to get you out on your water adventure.

    Kayaking to Atensa Otie Key
    Source: Atensa Otie Key

    Cedar Key Paddling recommends a short 15-minute paddle ride to Atensa Otie Island and will transport your kayak or paddleboard to a nearby launch site for departure.

    Cistern on Atensa Otie Key
    Source: Atensa Otie Key

    Paddle to Atensa beach, and be sure to visit the estuary loaded with birds, found in the middle of the island, or even hike the trail to the ruins of the 19th century Faber Pencil Factory.

    Pack a lunch and enjoy the eagles, ospreys, shore, and wading birds.

    You are also likely to see a few dolphins along your route. Cedar Key Paddling also does private tours and specializes in accommodating anglers with a bait and tackle shop on site.

    Waterfront from Cedar Key Paddling
    Source: Cedar Key Paddling

    Another outfitter is Kayak Cedar Keys located at City Beach. The owners are veteran outfitters and have spent years heralding Cedar Key as a paddling destination.

    They are also are highly knowledgeable about the area and local tides. They will advise on the best paddle trips for your particular interest.

    Go Hiking in Cedar Key

    Photo of Shell Mound trail, Lower Suwannee Wildlife Refuge
    Shell Mound trail, Lower Suwannee Wildlife Refuge

    For hikers consider the Lower Suwannee Wildlife Refuge, an easy drive from Cedar Key. Here you can experience the Shell Mound created by native Indian cultures over thousands of years.

    This is a native shell midden (heaps of oysters and shells from past civilizations) and is fun to hike to enjoy a slightly higher elevation above the coastal flatlands.

    Lower Suwannee Wildlife Refuge
    Source: Lower Suwannee Wildlife Refuge

    An easy trail from the parking lot, the walk will eventually wind down to an outlook and dock with a panoramic view of the marshes.

    Birding is prime early morning or late afternoon.

    Photo of Cedar Key's Big Dock
    Big Dock

    “Sleepy” and quiet with no traffic signals, Cedar Key is laid-back. Except during festivals/events, all of the action can be found at the main dock, or “Big Dock”.

    A fishing pier, restaurants, and bars are perched over the water with a view of the surrounding islands.

    Scanning the waters you will likely see dolphins. (At last count, 300 resident Bottlenose dolphins make Cedar Key home). They put on a show as they chase schools of mullet.

    Where to Stay

    Photo of Cedar Key's Big Dock
    Big Dock

    The Cedar Key Island Hotel

    Photo of The Cedar Key Island Hotel
    The Cedar Key Island Hotel

    For lodging, The Cedar Key Island Hotel is a legendary inn that has long been a favorite for visitors and locals – and one of Florida’s last originals.

    Owned by Andy and Stanley Bair, the welcoming and historic hotel has remained much the same since the beginning of time (or at least 1859).

    The Cedar Key Island Hotel
    Source: Yelp

    The building was originally made to last with 10-inch thick walls made from shell, limestone, and sand known as tabby.

    The structure has survived the test of time through hurricanes, storms, and floods. The rooms are comfortable and furnished with rustic antiques.

    Distressed wood Floors at The Cedar Key Island Hotel
    Source: The Cedar Key Island Hotel

    The distressed wooden floors have a familiar creak and the outside verandah features an old swing with surrounding comfy chairs with a nice view of the historic downtown and harbor.

    On a side note … Ghosts are rumored to walk the halls at night.

    Island Hotel & Restaurant + Bar

    Photo of the King Neptune mural at the Island Hotel Bar
    Island Hotel Bar, famous King Neptune (Helen Tooker, artist)

    One of the hotel hallmarks is the tavern located downstairs across from the front desk. A painting of King Neptune sits over the bar. 

    Wall paintings were drawn by a 1947 visitor, Helen Tooker. In exchange for room and board, painted scenes of Cedar Key, adorn the hotel.

    Heart of Palm Salad from  The Cedar Key Island Hotel
    Source: Yelp

    Locals insist the best meal on the island is at the Island Hotel Restaurant.

    Well worth trying is any dish with clams, the crab bisque, oysters Rockefeller, or the Grouper Savannah. But the real Florida classic is the Island Hotel Original Heart of Palm Salad.

    This salad was created by former owner Bessie Gibbs (1946-1973).

    Clams Island Hotel pasta in Cedar Key

    We had the Clams Island Hotel, which is fresh clams steamed in white wine, garlic, and butter served over pasta. It was worth every calorie.

    Also, word has it that the Island Hotel Bar hamburgers and cheese grits are legendary. Cedar Key in 2023 is not much different than when it originally opened.

    Island Hotel & Restaurant Address: 373 2nd St, C. Key, FL 32625

    Cedar Key Bed & Breakfast

    Flamingo statue in front of bed and breakfast

    Another alternative for lodging is the Cedar Key Bed & Breakfast. It is within easy walking distance of everything and is operated by Alice and George Oakley.

    Cedar Key Bed and Breakfast
    Source: Cedar Key Bed and Breakfast

    There are beautiful rooms surrounded by lush gardens, under ancient Florida oaks. It makes this inn an ideal setting for a wedding or family reunion.

    Cedar Key B&B Address: 810 3rd St, C. Key, FL 32625

    Other Dining Options

    Annie’s Cafe – Temporarily closed

    Annie's Cafe

    For breakfast, especially an authentic Florida cracker breakfast, try Annie’s Café.

    Sit on a screened porch overlooking the bayou. Local mullet and grits make it the real deal to start the day.

    Annie’s Cafe Address: 1924 W Brandon Blvd, Brandon, FL 33511

    Tony’s Seafood Restaurant – temporarily closed

    Photo of clam chowder at Tony's
    Tony’s famous clam chowder

    For lunch or dinner, don’t miss Tony’s Seafood Restaurant on Second Street with its fresh Gulf seafood and renowned clam chowder, featuring Cedar Key clams.

    The owner, Chef Eric, has won three world championships at the Great Chowder Cook-Off in Newport, Rhode Island.

    Tonys Clam Chowder and Lobster Bisque from Cedar Key
    Tony’s Clam Chowder & Lobster

    The rich and creamy chowder is overflowing with fresh clams and herbs flavored with a scant touch of heat. Chef Eric will even ship the chowder to your home.

    Tony’s Seafood Restaurant Address: 597 2nd St, C. Key, FL 32625

    Steamers

    Cedar Key grilled seafood salad from Steamers

    If it’s possible to fall in love with a salad, we experienced that with the grilled seafood salad at Steamers Clam Bar & Grill.

    It was so good, that we ended up getting it twice within a 4-day time frame.

    You honestly can’t go wrong with anything on their menu. Plus, the service is great!

    Steamers Clam Bar & Grill Address: 420 Dock St, C. Key, FL 32625

    Photo of a Cedar Key sign

    Cedar Key is a very special place, a true original. Its quaint vibe, its natural beauty, its history, and especially the people – possessed with perseverance and pride.

    The residents have a remarkable ability to keep life simple – making it one of the state’s most authentic and laid back places to visit.

    Cedar Key Clam Linguine

    Looking for a delicious recipe to make with your clams? Check out our delicious Clam Linguine.

    Don’t miss the annual Old Florida Celebration of the Arts Festival, also known as the Spring Arts Festival.

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